PROPER PRUNING TECHNIQUES
FOR FUELS REDUCTION
Often, recommendations for creating defensible space around homes and other structures on private property call for at least some pruning of trees to help protect against the spread of wildfire. But healthy plants are often weakened or deformed by improper pruning methods. Cuts made in the wrong place may never heal properly and leave the plant exposed to disease and insects. In order to keep the trees healthy, it’s important to trim them in a manner that avoids causing harm. Here are some basic guidelines to assist you in successfully pruning your trees.
When pruning twigs and small branches, always cut back to a vigorous bud or an intersecting branch. When cutting back to a bud, choose a bud that is pointing in the direction you wish the new growth to take. Make the pruning cut at approximately and 45 degree angle ¼ of an inch above the bud.
When pruning branches greater than ½ of an inch in diameter, cuts should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and the branch collar. Branches should not be removed flush with the trunk.
Thick and heavy branches should be removed flush to the collar at the base of the branch, not flush with the trunk. The collar is an area of tissue containing a chemically protective zone. When the collar is removed, the protective zone is removed, causing a serious trunk wound.
When cutting branches more than 1-1/2 inches in diameter, use a three-part cut to eliminate splitting and peeling. The first step is to saw an undercut from the bottom of the branch about 6 to 12 inches out from the trunk and about one third of the way through the branch. Make a second cut from the top, about 3 inches further out from the undercut, until the branch falls away. The resulting stub can then be cut back to the collar of the branch.
WHEN TO PRUNE
In general, the best time to prune most plants is during late winter or early spring before growth begins. The least desirable time is immediately after new growth develops in the spring. It also is advisable to limit the amount of pruning done late in summer as new growth may be encouraged on some plants. This growth may not have sufficient time to harden off before cold weather arrives.
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Young Douglas-fir with branches less than five feet off the ground that need to be pruned. Do not remove more than a third of the live crown when pruning a young tree.
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Be cautious with the placement of the tool. Notice the wrinkled tissue where the branch connects to the stem - this is the branch collar. Do not cut into the branch collar.
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An example of a properly pruned branch. The stub of the branch is short and close to the stem, but the branch collar is not cut into and damaged.
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DO NOT TOP OR TIP!
Topping, the pruning of large upright branches between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce the height of a tree. Tipping is a practice of cutting lateral branches between nodes to reduce crown width.
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The below picture is of a young big-leaf maple, a hardwood that loses its leaves in the winter. Notice the wrinkled tissue where the branch comes off of the trunk. This is the branch collar or bark ridge, which is also illustrated in the diagram to the left.
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Another common hardwood found along streams in Trinity County is the white alder. The branch bark ridge is readily apparent.
The red line in both of these hardwood photos shows where to make the final cut.
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An example of a branch bark ridge on a mature ponderosa pine tree. Please note the drawing above that illustrates steps for pruning larger branches.
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An example of an improperly pruned branch. The branch collar is damaged, the tree will take longer to heal and may be more susceptible to insect attack and disease.
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Be careful not to nick the trunk of the tree if using your chainsaw. This type of damage can be detrimental to the health of the tree.
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Fruit Tree Workshop
Do you want to know more about the care and maintenance of fruit trees? UC Cooperative Extension will have two workshops on Saturday, February 10th to answer your questions. In the morning workshop you can learn about the types of fruit that grow well here, rootstocks, planting tips, fertilization, irrigation, control of pests and disease, training and pruning.
The afternoon workshop will teach you how to revitalize old, neglected fruit trees. We’ll have a 3-hour demonstration and practice session at the Steiner Flat Orchard in Douglas City. You’ll learn how to save our heritage fruit trees and bring them back into production.
Workshop instructors include Rich Buchner, Tehama County Orchard Advisor, and Rico Montenegro, a certified arborist who has been directing the restoration of Whiskeytown’s Tower House orchard.
Fruit Tree Care and Maintenance will be from 9:00 am until noon at the Weaverville Fire Hall. Pruning to Restore Neglected Fruit Trees will be from 1:00 pm until 4:00 pm at the Steiner Flat Orchard. Both workshops are free and you can attend either or both. Pre-registration is encouraged for the morning workshop to make sure that there are enough handouts. Pre-registration is required for the workshop at Steiner Flat.
For more information and to pre-register, contact the University of California Cooperative Extension office at 628-5495.
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